The Outstation now Open

Photo: John and Judy travel in traditional style.

The Outstation is a new farmstay in northwestern New England giving guests a realistic and relaxing experience of the bush.

The 3,500 hectare sheep and cattle property, located 80km west of Quirindi and 80km south of Gunnedah, has been held by the Simson family since 1887.

Owner Reg Simson decided to renovate the shearer’s cottage and open up the farm to visitors because the cottage was sitting idle for most of the year.

The cottage was originally an outstation – hence the name – and was moved in the 1950s to become part of the ‘Gannany’ homestead (Aboriginal word meaning ‘smoke rising from hill’).

Reg and his wife Fiona have two young sons, Andy and Alex. They aim to make their farmstay family friendly and hope to attract international visitors as well as Australians.

“We think we can offer a genuine Australian experience on a working farm,” Reg explained.

The property is covered with native pastures and trees and there is an abundance of native wildlife.

The cottage has three bedrooms and sleeps six people; a fully equipped kitchen including full sized gas stove; a living / dining area with 5-channel television and DVD player and open fireplace; two bathrooms, one with a claw foot bath and the other that doubles as a laundry. All linen, towels and bedding are supplied but guests need to bring all their own food.

Outside, there’s an all weather tennis court and a 10-metre in ground pool. Guests are invited to come on a farm drive to check stock waters or to assist with farm jobs if they choose.

“We want to allow guests just to experience the farm and the environment for what it is. I suppose it’s a low-key kind of approach,” said Reg.

For some local sightseeing, guests can take day trips to the Warrumbungles National Park, the village of Spring Ridge (35kms away), or to the towns of Quirindi and Gunnedah.

Rates are: adults (17+) single $75 per night; two or more $50 per night per person; children $20 per night per person.

For more information please phone (02) 6747 6257 or visit http://www.theoutstation.com.au/ The Outstation is at 'Gananny', 6467 Bundella Road, Quirindi

Warrumbungles

Photo: Crater Bluff, Warrumbungle Range

In my last post New England Australia - introducing the Liverpool Plains I mentioned the Warrumbungle Range (more commonly called the Warrumbungles) as forming the western edge of the Liverpool Plains.

For those unfamiliar with the area, the Warrumbungles lie 329km (4:43 hours driving time) south east of Armidale, 480km (6:4 hours driving time) north-east of Sydney.

The Warrumbungles are the spectacular remnants of a large, heavily eroded shield volcano that was active from 18 to 15 million years ago. The main features are a series of huge, jagged outcrops, surrounded by hilly bush and woodland forest.

The Range's location between the moist eastern coastal zone and the dryer plains to the west means that it has provided protection for flora and fauna suited to both habitats.

Much of the area is protected by a national park. There are camping facilities,together with an extensive network of extensive network of tracks. The Siding Spring Observatory is situated on an eastern peak.

The Warrumbungle Region site provides more information about the area and its attractions.

Postscript

Thinking about this post later, I feel the need to add one thing. The Warrumbungles really are quite spectacular and well worth a visit.

New England Australia - introducing the Liverpool Plains

Photo: Liverpool Plains near Carroll.

As I write, controversy rages over plans to explore for coal in another area of the Liverpool Plains.

Very few Australians know the Liverpool Plains as such, although many have driven through them along the New England Highway. Yet this is not a small area, totalling around 1.2 million hectares.

The Plains lie on the western slopes of New England's Great Dividing Range, so the New England Tablelands form the eastern boundary.

The Liverpool Range forms the southern boundary.

This range starts from the Barrington Tops volcanic plateau and runs for about 100 km westwards, in so doing forming the northern boundary of the Hunter Valley, before merging into the Warrumbungle Range, the Plains' western boundary.

The Liverpool Range itself can be quite high (1300 metres) and rugged and formed a significant barrier to the expansion of settlement in the early period of British settlement in New South Wales. This was frontier country, marking the edge of the thirty nine counties proclaimed by the Governor in Sydney as the limits of settlement.

The first route across the range was Pandoras Pass discovered by Allan Cunningham (botanist). This is located near the western end of the range, north from the town of Coolah and within Coolah Tops National Park.

Most Australians will know Nowland Pass or Murrurundi Gap better. Here the New England Highway climbs sharply up the Range, leaving the Hunter Valley behind. The Great Northern Railway crosses under this pass via Ardglen Tunnel. Further to the east lies the country and journey that I described in Secrets of New England - along the Fossickers Way Day Two.

If the Plains are bounded by the Tablelands on the east, the Liverpool Range on the south and the Warrumbungle Range on the west, what is the northern boundary? I have never been sure. In my mind, driving north from Tamworth along Fossickers Way, the Plains end with the first of the western spurs from the Tablelands.

This was originally Kamilaroi country. With European intrusion, it became part of the Australian Agricultural Company's vast holdings. Tamworth, the Plains' main centre, began as a small village surrounded by AA holdings.

With the break-up of the big stations, the Plains became prime agricultural land, a wealthy wheat farming district. This remains true today, and lies at the heart of the conflict between mining - large coal deposits lie under parts of the Plains - and farming.

Fossicking in New England

Photo: Fossicking, Inverell

Some time ago, I started a series of posts describing the Fossicker's Way, the New England road linking some of New England's best fossicking areas.

Google blogger is down just at present, so I cannot provide details of these posts. I will add links once the problem is sorted.

I did just the first two days in this series, leaving my travellers stranded at Nundle. Now the people from Big Sky Country have put together some useful material on fossicking in New England's Northern Tablelands' region that allows me to extend the series.

Moving from Nundle, visitors travel to Tamworth and then up the western edge of the Tablelands through to Inverell and Glen Innes. Here we come to some great fossicking country. Here the sapphires are plentiful but, they can also be really, really big.

A couple sifting through a pile of wash at Inverell’s 7 Oaks Fossicking Park, can attest to this fact, after discovering a 42.13 carat blue sapphire, the largest stone ever found by a fossicker on site.

According to 7 Oaks’ owner, Peter Black, the stone is “an absolute monster”.

While the size of this find was rare, unearthing gemstones in decent quantities from the region is not, say the resident fossicking experts of Big Sky Country.

Along with the royal blue sapphire, the region is prolific for its rich diversity of gems and minerals, such as aquamarine, emerald, fluorite, topaz, zircon, garnet and quartz.

Big Sky Country is the New England North West region of NSW, part of it intersected by the road known as – yes, The Fossicker’s Way. The best towns to stay in for a few good days of fossicking are Inverell and Glen Innes.

Inverell justifiably goes by the title of ‘The Sapphire City’ because 70 per cent of Australia’s sapphires come from here, while Glen Innes boasts Minerama, one of the biggest annual gem and mineral festivals in Australia.

Here’s a basic guide to some of the fossicking options provided by Big Sky Country.

7 Oaks Fossicking Park, Inverell

This 300 acre property on Frazer Creek is family operated and has been producing sapphires since the 1960's. You can fossick on the natural creek banks, but the easier and most popular option is to sift through the piles of wash supplied to you.

Peter Black had only just bought 7 Oaks in April 2015, when a few weeks later, a couple from Port Macquarie found a 42.13 carat sapphire – the biggest find ever by a fossicking visitor at the park. The stone is estimated to be worth $5,000 to a collector.

Situated 19kms from Inverell, 7 Oaks is open for basic bush camping, with bush toilets, picnic tables and wood fire barbecues. Cost is $20 per day for adults and $10 for children aged 8 to 14.

http://www.sapphiresinverell.com.au/

Phone 02 6725 1582

Billabong Blue Sapphire Fossicking Park, Inverell

This park, 16km from Inverell, makes fossicking relatively civilized. You get to sift through the wash on benches at waist height and the owners, Rhonda and Bill, offer their professional advice should you need it. There’s a café, BBQ and picnic areas, water tanks and toilets.

Billabong Blue promotes itself as ideal for the first time fossicker or the seasoned expert, and guarantees every visitor will go home with some coloured gems in their pocket. Cost is $20 per day, or $40 for a family (two adults, two children).

http://www.billabongblue.fossickingpark.com.au/

Phone 02 6721 0500

Poolbrook Gems Fossicking Park, Inverell

Poolbrook is another private property where visitors can fossick for a day for a fee. Located at Frazer's Creek, 26 kilometres from Inverell, visitors must stop at Kottage Kiya Gallery, 8 km from Inverell on the Nullamanna-Emmaville Road, to pick up sieves and get directions from Louise Walburn, one of the park's owners. Louise also gives first-time fossickers some helpful hints. Cost is $10 per day, children under 12 free.

Phone 02 6722 2781

Free Fossicking Sites in Inverell

There are three free areas to fossick around Inverell: Pindaroi Lake, Bukkulla; Frazer Creek, Nullamanna and Swanbrook Creek, Swanbrook Road.

Stannifer Fossicking Area, Tingha

Many of Tingha’s streets are named after the gems found in the district. In this free fossicking area, you may find jellybeans (water worn quartz crystals) quartz and grass stone. Tingha is about 17km south of Inverell.

Glen Rest Tourist Park, Glen Innes

Resident caravanners and visitors to Glen Innes can enjoy the privilege of fossicking through a bucket or bag of soil, with equipment and tuition supplied, along with shaded picnic tables. Cost is from $10 per bucket.

www.gleninnes.com/glenrestpark

Phone 02 6732 2413

Wellingrove Fossicking Reserve, Glen Innes

A peaceful and secluded spot for a fossick, Wellingrove is 19km north west of Glen Innes where you can hope to find sapphires and zircons.

A permit is required from the Visitor Information Centre and it costs from $5 per person a day but children under 12 are free.

Boolabinda Holiday Homestead, Glen Innes

Fossicking is just one of the activities available at this farmstay. You can search for sapphires and zircons in Reddestone Creek for $8 per day, plus $3 equipment hire.

http://www.boolabinda.com.au/ (closed June July & August)

Phone 02 6732 2215

Bullock Mountain Homestead

Bullock Mountain is also a farmstay, where you can fossick through buckets of wash from a disused mine or try your luck in Reddestone Creek. Fossicking park buckets costs $15.00 (includes sieves) while creek fossicking is $10.

http://www.bullockmountainhomestead.com/

Phone 02 6732 1599 – please book ahead.

Three Waters High Country Holidays, Glenn Innes

Fossicking for sapphires, zircons in Reddestone Creek at $8 per day, with equipment hire $3.

www.gleninnes.com/3waters

Phone 02 67 32 4863

Guided Field Tours – Baptist Church Fossicking Club, Glen Innes

This is a group visit to private land sites that occurs most Wednesdays. The group leaves at 9am from the Baptist Church, New England Highway and travels in convoy. A small charge per person.

Other areas to remember for free fossicking around Glen Innes Severn Council shire include Kookabookra, Glencoe, and Torrington State Conservation Area.

Three Creeks Gold Mine, Bingara

Three Creeks Gold Mine is a working mine that re-opened to the public in 2015 after a six-year closure. Owner Paul Myer guarantees that every visitor who pans will find some gold here, from a reef that has been mined since the 1800s. He provides full instruction on gold panning and equipment. Quartz crystals are also dominant here. Gold panning is $25 per day (this includes a mine tour), $15 for kids under 12 and under 5’s free.

There are a limited number of campsites available here as well as an on-site van.

Phone 02 6783 2224.

Iron Bark Creek and Woodsreef Fossicking Areas, Barraba

The Barraba area was known for its gold mines and mining villages in the late 1800s, and these areas are still most worthwhile for a fossick. You may find gold and other minerals such as copper, pyrites, jasper, garnets, zeolite, as well as opaque red, brown and yellow quartz. There are no facilities at Woodsreef Reserve but it is open for camping.

Phone 02 6782 1255

Further Information phone:

• Inverell Tourism: 02 6728 8161
• Glen Innes Tourism: 02 6730 2400
• Bingara Visitor Centre: 02 6724 0066

Both Inverell and Glen Innes Visitors Centres have their own fossicking brochures, which provide detailed information and maps.

Entry point for the Fossickers Way series.

Gwydir River - Introduction

Map: Gwydir River catchment.

I am not sure that the above map is goming to come out in any readable form. But you should be able to see the full map in bigger form by clicking on it. I won't know, however, until I load the post - it did, I see.

My last introductory post on Bingara reminded me that I had said very little about New England's western rivers, those rivers flowing west from the New England Tablelands. While these rivers carry less water than the better known coastal rivers, they are still major streams in their own right and form a significant part of the Darling River system.

The Gwydir River is one such, rising in the Tablelands to the south of Uralla. Over coming posts I will tell a little of the Gwydir River story.

Posts

Gwydir River - Kentucky Creek

Gwydir River - Rocky River

Bingara launches new web site

Photo: Monument to the Myall Creek Massacre

My thanks to Nicole Payne from John Campbell Communication & Marketing for drawing my attention to the new Bingara web site developed by Bingara and District VISION 20/20, a community focus and action group.

It's a good site and reminded me that I have yet to do a story on Bingara. I will do so.

Big Sky Tourism's Aboriginal Heritage Tour

I was pleased to see that the Big Sky Tourism people have put together material outlining some of the Aboriginal attractions across the Northern Tablelands and Western Slopes.

I have long argued that we need more thematic tourism material to make New England's attractions more accessible to visitors. I think that this is especially important in making our indigenous heritage available to both locals and a wider audience.

Manilla - Oakhampton Farmstay

Photo: That's a whopper. Oakhampton Farm Stay

Oakhampton is a 4,000 acre farmstay near Manilla. Run by Belinda Nixon and her son James, it has been in the family for six generations and is a working sheep and cattle property.

Belinda and James have been hosting visitors to Oakhampton since 1990. They welcome families, couples, aspiring jack and jillaroos, grey nomads and, quite often, groups of American school students as part of the “People to People” program.

James, an earthy, friendly type who unashamedly adores every animal on the farm, talks about the way the farmstay experience can make a difference to people.

“We had a boy with autism who actually smiled for the first time in his life when he held a baby goat,” says James, grinning broadly.

“Then there’s the American city kids who get more than just a lesson in sheep shearing or horse riding – they get a decent idea of life in the bush, of Australian wildlife and the amount of work required to maintain a farm like ours,” he explains.

A major appeal of Oakhampton is the range of accommodation options. You can stay in the main homestead and have all your meals served to you. Belinda and James are excellent caterers who will dish up healthy, traditional dinners in their formal dining room, and big country breakfasts in the more casual sunroom.

Next option is to stay in the “apartment” also located within the homestead, where you can cook for yourself in the small kitchen. There are three bedrooms, a living room and bathroom so a family can be easily accommodated here.

In the neighbouring paddocks are two cottages, where you are completely self- contained but more private, yet still able to access all the farm activities.

A decent two kilometre walk down the track, or a few minutes drive are the bunkhouses, catering to larger groups.

Meals can all be arranged depending on your specific needs. Those who stay in the cottages usually bring their own supplies while those in the homestead usually enjoy their meals served by the hosts.

The abundance of baby animals and native wildlife living in the paddocks close to the main homestead means most guests get the opportunity for some close interaction with the creatures.

On arrival at the back door, you’ll meet George, the sulphur-crested cockatoo who will sing along with you if you’re lucky. Meanwhile the working dogs will gather round and give you a friendly hello and you may also spot the latest batch of kittens roaming around.

Chances are you’ll find an orphaned joey or two wrapped in a blanket in a basket inside the house because Belinda is a member of the wildlife rescues service, WIRES.

Most of the kangaroos that arrive at her door are those whose mothers have been hit by cars. The joeys can be just as demanding as babies in terms of feed times, so guests often get asked to bottle feed them.

Take a stroll around the yard with James who will introduce you to each of the animals as proudly as if they’re his own children.

There are plenty of goats and kids, also deer, chooks, guinea fowl, rabbits and a blind cow. Then there’s Daisy May, the large white pig, a favourite with children at feeding time, because there’s nothing like watching a pig pigging out.

Ask James anything you like about the animals and he’s always happy to share his knowledge. He also takes trail riding tours around the property and will teach you the basics of horse riding if you’re a novice.

It’s a short and pleasant drive to Split Rock Dam, where you can have a picnic overlooking the water. The view is better when the dam is full of course, but sadly this is a rare occurrence these days. Fishing is an option here as well, but you can also fish at the private dam on the property.

Other activities to keep you active include tennis on the clay court, bike riding on the unsealed roads and bird watching.

Belinda and James are a fount of local knowledge and as long as they don’t have a farm job for you, can always suggest other things to see and do in their neighbourhood.

Manilla has a huge reputation internationally with paragliders, hang-gliders and glider pilots. In 2015, it hosted the World Paragliding Championships. Head for Mt Borah – the launch site where you can watch people take flight, or perhaps get adventurous and try a lesson with the Manilla Sky Sailors Club.

Oakhampton is generally fully booked in school holiday periods, so bookings ahead of time are recommended. It’s testament to the fact that this is a farmstay without a hint of holiday pretension about it.

Location

Manilla is approximately 45kms north of Tamworth the Fossickers Way. Oakhampton Homestead is 20km north of Manilla. Website: http://www.oakhampton.biz/ Phone: 02 67 85 6517.

For general enquiries about Manilla, please phone the Visitor Information Centre on 02 67 851 113.

New England's east-west highways - the Kamilaroi

Map: Kamilaroi Highway

Named after the Kamilaroi peoples, the Kamilaroi Highway leaves the New England Highway just north of Willow Tree. From there it runs north-west through Quirindi to Narrabari and then veers west through Wee Waa, Burren Junction, Walgett and Brewarrina ending at Bourke.

Part of the highway goes through contested, marchland territory from a New England perspective. If you look at the road map, the first part is clearly in New England. However, the far western portion has moved in and out of New England's boundaries.

A key influence here lay in Bourke's role as a river port. Dissatisfied with the loss of traffic and especially wool down the Darling River to South Australia, the colonial Government in Sydney pushed what was called the Main Western Line northwest to Bourke, arriving there in 1885. This drew Bourke and surrounding areas more firmly into Sydney's orbit.

During the Northern (the name New England was not adopted for the new state area until 1931)separation agitation in the 1920s, some suggested boundaries did include Bourke. However, the boundaries recommended by the Nicholas Royal Commission (1935) excluded Bourke and the far west portion. Then the 1967 plebescite boundaries followed Nicholas, to the great distress of many nearby areas who wanted to get out from Sydney and saw themselves as part of New England.

At 607k (around eight hours driving time), the Kamilaroi is not an especially long highway by Australian standards. It is also a very interesting road. In the words of the highway site:

The Kamilaroi Highway route to Bourke from the east coast takes you into the agricultural heartland of NSW, cruising through golden fields of wheat, sunflowers and canola; past the rugged mountain ranges of the Nandewars and Mt Kaputar; and on to the sunburnt plains of the Outback grazing runs.

Along the way, the Kamilaroi’s iconic towns and settlements give you every excuse to extend your journey over several days, with each stop presenting its own unique slice of life in the bush.

I think that this is pretty correct.

For related posts about the towns and regions along the highway see:

• Kamilaroi Highway - Werris Creek Railway Monument and Museum
• Kamilaroi Entry Page. This provides an entry point to posts about the Kamilaroi Aboriginal peoples.
• Werris Creek Railway Timeline
• Teaching in New England - Braefield 1916-1923
• The Outstation now Open
• What has Jane Austin got to do with food in Regional Australia?
• Polocrosse & Narrabri
• Experience a slice of the drover's life - Boggabri
• In Search of the Tastiest Tomato

New England Tablelands achieves GI wine status

Back in August 2006 I looked briefly at the early history of wine growing on the New England Tablelands and Slopes. From early beginnings, grape and wine production grew rapidly only then to vanish, re-emerging in recent years. Now in the next stage of the industry's development, the Tablelands and immediate slopes have achieved GI status under the "New England Australia" label.

GI, short for Geographical Indications, is the official system by which Australia's different wine regions are recognised and protected. According to the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation, the area's unque set of climatic conditions and similarities of topography, soil types and climate have earned the region its new status.

At 27,000 kilometres, the new region is one of Australia's largest and is presently home to 42 vineyards. The area's diverse conditions makes for considerable variety.

Postscript

According to the Inverell Times, local industy associations are planning an official regional launch at Armidale on 15 February, with a gala event at Parliament House in Sydney later in the year.

Experience a slice of the drover's life - Boggabri

Photo: Boggabri main street

If you fancy a slice of a drover‘s life for just a few days, then head for the north western New England town of Boggabri (and here, here) this April.

The third annual Drover’s Campfire Weekend happens at the Boggabri Showground from April 25 to April 28.

Anyone with a caravan, motorhome, camper trailer, ute, tent or even just a swag is welcome to join in this weekend of classic country activities.

Hosted by the Boggabri Lions Club, the weekend includes: local tours of the district, delicious, economical camp oven meals (no more than $12), campfire sing-a-longs with entertainment, market stalls, shearing demonstrations, bush poetry, whip cracking and a community church service.

Boggabri cattle farmer and seasoned caravanner Geoff Eather initiated the weekend in 2006 in an effort to promote the town to travellers, particularly the caravanning community.

The inaugural event attracted around 100 people from around NSW. Last year over 300 people attended and even greater numbers are expected this year.

“I just saw it as a way to get people to stop in town, have a look around and share the experience of caravanning with others,” Mr Eather said.

“Thanks to the generous community support from Lions Club members, the concept is proving very successful.“

Entertainers this year include Rex Baldwin from Gunnedah and renowned Melbourne bush poet, Jim Brown. On Saturday night everyone’s invited to “Dress Up As A Drover”.

Mr Eather said the local tours (weather permitting) will include a visit to a cotton gin and coal mine and the visitors should have some fun with some of the events planned.

“We also want to remind people that if it rains it will be a little muddy underfoot – that is part of a drover’s life, after all,” he said.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Fees for the weekend are $5 for unpowered sites and $12 for powered which are reserved for those with medical issues. Power, showers, toilets, access to water and dump point available. Generators welcome, RV retailers welcome. Book early to avoid disappointment.

Boggabri is located on the Kamilaroi Highway halfway between Gunnedah and Narrabri in New England's North West.

Registration forms are available from the web site or from The Boggabri Lions Club. Contact: Geoff Eather (02) 6743 4469. Email: geather@westnet.com.au Web: www.boggabri.com.au

Secrets of New England - along the Fossickers Way Day One

Photo: Wollombi Village, Hunter Valley

Too many visitors to New England either travel through or go straight to popular tourist destinations such as Coffs Harbour. In doing so, they miss many of the secrets of inland New England. So come with me on a secret tour.

Our journey starts in Scone and finishes in Glen Innes. Alternatively, start in Glen and then move south.

Leave Sydney early for Scone. You are on holidays, so forget the full express way. The way I am suggesting is about about three and a half hours drive time, so you have plenty of time for excursions.

Take the Peats Ridge exit from the express way and proceed down George Downes Drive towards Wollombi. This brings you onto the original Great North Road constructed by convict labour. Signs of the original work can still be found along the road.

Already you face a hard choice. Wollombi and the following village of Broke both have history, attractions and wine, lots of wine. I am not going to spoil your fun by making suggestions. Investigate and decide where you want to spend your time.

From Broke the road continues on to join the Putty Road and then right towards Singleton. I actually know Singleton quite well, but their web site (at least the one I have found) is very ordinary and does not do the town justice. I am not going to plug a place where I (and you) cannot get the information required to persuade us to stop.

At Singleton we join the New England Highway and then head north through Muswellbrook and Aberdeen to Scone.

Scone (and here) is now known as the Horse Capital of Australia because of the local studs. An attractive town, Scone offers a variety of experiences. Here the Visitor Information and Wine Centre, situated opposite Elizabeth Park (and the mare and foal statue) should be your first stop. It offers suggestions with attractions, dates for special events as well as accommodation and meals.

There is plenty of acommodation in Scone itself. However, for something a little different, you may want to try Belltrees Station, one of Australia's great rural stations still owned by the White family. The Australian writer Patrick White is part of this family.

This ends day one.

Fossickers Way posts

• Secrets of New England - along the Fossickers Way Day One
• Secrets of New England - along the Fossickers Way Day Two
• Fossicking in New England